SY Aspen - Rock to Rock

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

2011-12-24T05:01:00.003+09:30

The Siguaw, Singletary and Shoemaker families

This is what happens when we spent too much time on a sailboat - Maria is working on an addition to our house. I want to put a cannon in the turret!

S/Y Aspen – December 23, 2011 – Log #79
Aspen Position: 36 degrees 51’ N 028 degrees 16’ E (UTC +3 Hours)
Steve and Maria Position: Pine, Colorado USA 39 degrees 29' N 105 degrees 23 min W (UTC -7 Hours)

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of our friends and family!

May 2012 be a safe and prosperous year.

We will return to Turkey in March to sail Aspen once again so keep checking this blog for the latest on our travels!

Sail on, sail on and sail safe, Aspen

Rocky Mountain High

2011-06-23T06:07:00.003+09:30

Captain Steve and Maria accepting the Rock of Gibraltar Crystal presented by the skippers and crew of the Blue Water Rally at the final farewell party in Marmaris, Turkey

S/Y Aspen – June 22, 2011 – Log #78
Aspen Position: 36 degrees 51’ N 028 degrees 16’ E (UTC +3 Hours)
Steve and Maria Position: Pine, Colorado USA

We arrived back in Colorado to be greeted by clear blue skies, warm temperatures and white capped mountain peaks shimmering in our western sky. It was a long way from Turkey to Denver and a long time to hang in the sky too, as a friend once sang.

We are getting settled into our Rocky Mountain home once again - getting the water turned on, electricity to power the refrigerator, satellite TV and DSL for the computers. All three cars started right away so that was nice, and they didn't even have flat tires!

We had a really nice visit with our families in Joliet, IL after setting foot on US soil once again. Chicago style hot dogs, pizza, poor boy sandwiches and corn fed beef was a welcome treat after the fare we had been eating.

Before we left Turkey there was one final farewell dinner with all of the skippers and crew of the Blue Water Rally. Excelsior Tours, one of our Rally boats, organized a spectacular party overlooking Marmaris harbor as well as looking toward our transport ship, the mv Palmerton that rested peacefully against the dock with all 20 Rally boats onboard. It was an enchanting evening where we bid fair winds and calm seas to each other as our journeys continue but not together as a Rally any longer. The evening was highlighted by a poignant, fond and moving toast to Phyllis, Bob, Jean and Scott of the sailboat Quest.

Captain Steve and Maria were presented with the highest award possible by the skippers and crew of the Blue Water Rally - the Gibraltar Crystal. We were shocked to say the least! The Gibraltar Crystal is a glass Rock of Gibraltar presented to the Blue Water Rally at the beginning of this Around the World Rally by the Gibraltar Government. It was passed from boat to boat before every significant passage throughout the rally, with the crews ensuring the safety of the precious Gibraltar Crystal at all times. We accepted the award in the spirit it was given, by fellow sailors who endured incredible hardship and unfathomed joy throughout the nearly 2 year circumnavigation of the planet.

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Marmaris, Turkey and USA

2011-06-15T18:27:00.003+09:30

Aspen arriving safely in Marmaris, Turkey aboard the mv Palmerton. Aspen is located near the stern, the 2nd mast on the ship's starboard side.

S/Y Aspen – June 14, 2011 – Log #77
Aspen Position: 36 degrees 51’ N 028 degrees 16’ E (UTC +3 Hours)
Marmaris, Turkey / USA
(Steve and Maria Position: Joliet, IL visiting family!)

Aspen has been unloaded from the transport ship and is resting comfortably on land in Marmaris, Turkey. She safely arrived after negotiating the pirate waters off Somalia and the Red Sea, thanks to captain Igor who commanded the transport ship, mv Palmerton. Yes, Igor is from Ukraine! At 6 feet 5 inches tall Igor takes no prisoners during his command.

Aspen was offloaded the first day in Turkey and softly touched the clean waters of the Mediterranean, ridding herself of the dust from Oman and safely gliding away to the marina. It was such a nice feeling to be in safe waters again!

The captain and Maria just arrived in another country, the USA. What a fantastic place this is!

Now it is time to recharge our mental batteries (and the savings account) as we enjoy being home once again. As Dorothy said, "there is no place like home, there is no place like home, …").

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

We arrived in Rhodes, Greece!

2011-06-03T23:53:00.001+09:30

The ruins at Lindos on Rhodes, Greece - in the background.

S/Y Aspen – June 3, 2011 – Log #76
Position: 36 degrees 24’ N 028 degrees 15’ E (UTC +3 Hours)
Rhodes, Greece

It only took 3 different airlines, with 8 take offs and landings in 3 different countries to get to a friendly country!

The flights were Salalah to Muscat, Oman. Muscat to Doha, Qatar. Doha, Qatar to Athens. Athens to Rhodes. The airlines we took (Oman Air, Qatar Airlines and Aegean Airlines) were all very nice. They all served food, even the shorter flights. There was even free liquor on the long flight from Doha to Athens!

Waking up to our first view of the Mediterranean, right outside our window, was surreal. It only took us over 3 months to get here.

Right now it is warm and sunny with lots of friendly people everywhere. Even the food is great!

Tomorrow we will take the fast 50 minute ferry to Marmaris, Turkey to wait for our ship to arrive with Aspen onboard. The ship is transiting pirate waters as I type this, escorted by NATO warships. Let's hope they all make it through safely.

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Aspen is Loaded!

2011-05-29T13:07:00.004+09:30

The mv Palmerton - our transport ship!

Looking up Aspen's mast while we are floating in the water, trying not to hit the big yellow bar! We had a few inches to spare.

Looking up where we will be going and the big yellow crane that will lift Aspen.

Aspen loaded on the deck of the Palmerton with one of the really big sailboats going in right beside little Aspen!

Captain Steve working hard to secure everything on Aspen. It is really really hot!

This is how the crew swings the boats onboard. This is our friend's boat, Blue Magic.

The end result - Aspen loaded on the mv Palmerton in Salalah, Oman. This is the very exhausted crew.

S/Y Aspen – May 29, 2011 – Log #75
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)
Salalah, Oman

The big ship arrived in Salalah, Oman. Her name is the Palmerton and she is a sight for tired eyes.

Several days before her arrival were filled with port logistics and meetings. Two loading masters came and went before one arrived who wanted to stay and work on the project.

The first day in port, the loading process started at 1:15 pm and three boats were loaded, with Aspen being the 3rd boat! It took 4 tries to get the big crane properly positioned for Aspen's lift out, pulling her 50 feet into the air alongside the big ship. The crane then rotated over the ship, swinging Aspen into place near the stern of the Palmerton.

2 hours later Aspen was securely welded onto the deck of the Palmerton - not Aspen but the steel supports that are holding her.

It was like a giant black cloud suddenly dissipated all around us as we realized what had just happened. Aspen, our home for the past 28 months, was sitting securely onboard a ship that will take her away from the most dangerous waters in the world. Aspen is safe, as are her owners.

Marmaris, Turkey is Aspen's next destination. We will go by way of Greece with a short ferry ride to Marmaris when we know our ship is arriving.

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

We gotta get outta this place!

2011-05-21T13:20:00.001+09:30

Oasis Bar and Grill happy hour; Salalah, Oman

S/Y Aspen – May 21, 2011 – Log #74
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)
Salalah, Oman

"We gotta get outta this place!", lyrics by the Animals

Yes, we are still in exile in Oman. The port security guards challenge us as we drive through the gate on a daily basis, on our way to the nearby hotel so we can shower. The guards ask to see passports, visa and port permit. We roll down the dark tinted window of the rental car to let the stifling desert heat engulf us and say in English, "little ships".

The guard immediately opens the gate to let us pass, ignoring our papers as he smiles warmly. He knows we are in exile and is sympathetic to our plight.

Hardly a day passes without a report of another pirate attack very close to the Oman coast near us. The Oman coast is crawling with pirates and the Oman Navy and Police are powerless to stop them. The Somali pirates are ruthless and rule both the Indian Ocean and the Gulf of Aden. The constant stream of warships into our port attest to the dangers that lurk outside this protected harbor.

We keep writing this, but, our ship is still heading this way. When it will arrive is still a mystery it seems. We receive daily updates talking about delay after delay while we sit and wait in the stifling heat aboard our little ships. It does cool down at night to nearly 90 degrees with no breeze!

Every day we prepare out boats for the upcoming journey. We scrape waste from the waterline, clean anchor chain of debris that has become entangled and scrape the dinghy bottom of the hundreds of barnacles that cover every inch of the fiberglass and rubber.

But on the bright side we have the grocery store LuLu's. It is fairly modern with a good selection of reject US products on the shelves. The Middle East seems to be a dumping ground for food that does not pass the stringent US inspections. So they send it around the world. No pork though - that is a no no here.

We buy produce from Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, Iran, and Pakistan. Meats are from New Zealand, India, Australia and Oman. Veiled women wearing all black abbayas sit at the check out counter and cast a mysterious eye at us through their black burka (eye slit) when we unload our cart. Under the abbayas it is rumored that the women wear French designer clothes, although we infidels will never see that!

Maybe next week we will have some better news about our BIG ship.

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Salalah Port News

2011-05-05T13:49:00.002+09:30

Fun days in French Polynesia!

S/Y Aspen – May 6, 2011 – Log #73
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)
Salalah, Oman

Living in a working port like Salalah, Oman is packed with fun-filled days and nights, yea right.

Ocean going cargo ships come alongside the massive docks unloading cargo from all over the world. They then load waiting containers and within less than 30 hours are on their way out onto the oceans of the world.

We watch these massive ships maneuver near us with their wakes tossing little Aspen around like a cork. That tends to wake us up at night before we realize we are not at sea but at anchor!

Ships also load gravel here and the constant roar of gravel trucks near our stern, along with the dust that coats every square inch of our boat remind us how we miss the open sea. Water is scarce so washing Aspen is rarely possible, especially to get the bird droppings off her decks as well as he dirt.

The hum of generators from the Omani military ships creates a cacophony that is not appreciated by anyone. Those sailors should be out fighting the pirates and not relaxing here we believe.

Speaking of military, we have military ships from many countries arrive next to us for re-supply and some R&R. UK, India, Korea, Finland, Japan, Turkey, Germany, Italy and of course the USA are frequent visitors. It is difficult to describe our excitement when we see a US military ship come in.

There is one bar/restaurant in the port and that is a gathering place for all of the military people. When a persons opens the door we know immediately if they are from the USA. The USA has the fittest, strongest and most literate of any of the military people we have ever seen. The sailors from the other ships who arrive simply do not have the physical presence, intelligence or focused attitude that the US military people have.

The US Navy Seals are extraordinary when they arrive. These are hardened men with a no-nonsense attitude. They are also extremely secretive. Maria always talks to anyone from the US because we have essentially no one to talk to other than the Brits, who speak a different language. When Maria greets a Navy Seal there is instant politeness toward her and a warm conversation always follows. But when Maria asks where they are from, where are they going, what did they have for lunch the Navy seals are evasive. They give no specifics and are always focused on their mission - something they will never talk about.

We also met a ship full of US Marines in March who were on the USS Boxer headed to ???. They would not tell us of course. The Navy seals we met were with them as well. The recent successful operation in Pakistan by the US Navy seals made us think. Maybe, just maybe we met these heroic people here in Salalah.

We also made quick friends with a pilot in the Omani air force this earlier week. Mark attended and graduated from the US Air Force Academy in Colorado so we had a lot to talk about. Mark flies F-16's for the Omani's and tries to train them. I asked him about what he thought about the success in Pakistan and he described his missions in Afghanistan and Pakistan where many of his friends did not return home. He was happy that Osama was killed but extremely elated that the computers and databases had been taken from the compound intact. That was the ultimate satisfaction for him because governments and sympathizers will be taken down with that information.

Nearly every day now Mark comes over in his F-16 and violates Omani airspace by flying at tree top level (if there were any trees) near the speed of mach 1 as he skims Aspen's mast in the port. The roar from that plane is deafening to say the least as he banks hard left and heads out over the endless sea.

Will we ever get out of here? We wish we knew too. Our ship is slowly making way towards us so we hope to see Turkey at the end of this month. Keep your fingers crossed. 3 months in Oman is a long time to suffer.

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Sailing As Seen Through Our Eyes

2011-04-30T20:05:00.002+09:30

All of the Blue Water Rally yachts watching the Royal wedding in Salalah, Oman.

S/Y Aspen – April 30, 2011 – Log #72
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)
Salalah, Oman

We have a little time to reflect now, since we are still waiting for the ship to carry Aspen safely up through the Red Sea. We have been moving really fast for the past 2 years, as you know, so this is a little reflecting that we have done.

This voyage has not only been one of discovery but also a life changing event for both of us.

Things we never knew about a circumnavigation:

- We used to think that a 36 hour sail in the Caribbean was a long way. Now anything less than 12 days is short
- 25 knots of wind on the nose is a common weather pattern for us
- Local unlit fishing boats that block your way in the middle of the night are just something to make our watch exciting
- Fishing nets, old lines, fish traps, plastic bags, and large logs will stop your boat quickly
- Government officials in Indonesia and Malaysia are worse than anything in South America
- Running on the beach at the home of Komodo dragons is life threatening
- In Australia if a creature moves it can kill you
- Dirty diesel that stops your engine is everywhere but especially so in the Galapagos
- Anything remotely expensive on your boat will break
- Anything designed not to break on your boat will break
- Your boat will break because it is abused 24/7 for months on end
- A knockdown is a common word based on experience now
- Weather forecasts are just as bad at sea around the world as they are at home
- Stinger suit is a garment we would not like to wear again
- Data sim cards are not simple
- WIFI is not free
- Mexican restaurants are few and far between
- KFC, Coke, Pepsi, McDonalds and all groceries taste much different even though they are US brands
- Sea water will find every tiny opening and penetrate inside your boat
- Permanent rust stains mysteriously appear on every item of clothing
- Flip flops actually wear out
- Expired food items are still edible
- Finding strange pieces of metal or plastic on your deck indicate something is about to break
- Yamaha dinghy engines only last 5 years
- Dinghies can float away if they are not tied to something
- Niue is the friendliest island on the planet
- Bouncing off a reef is common rather than an exception
- Tsunami warnings are accurate and finding deep water quickly is necessary
- Most anchors are useless pieces of metal, except for the Rocna anchor
- You can never have too much anchor chain
- Bottom paint with tin really works
- Bottom paint with copper doesn't really work
- Folding propellers will jam
- Dripless propeller shafts will fail
- Engine service is a household expression now
- The gentle Pacific Ocean is mis-named
- The sunsets in French Polynesia are spectacular beyond belief
- The power of the sea is unrelenting, unforgiving and more powerful than anything we have ever seen
- The Marquesas Islands are mysterious, friendly and more impressive than any book can portray
- Landfall in the South Pacific makes the long long journey well worth it
- Nearly everything that lives in the sea will be seen from the deck and some things actually land on the deck
- Navigating without electronics, autopilot and battery power is a life-altering event
- Big battery banks will all fail at once
- Rationing fuel consumption is a learned skill
- Cooking gas bottles (propane bottles) wear out
- Singapore is a true oasis in a trouble sea
- New Years Eve on Patong Beach in Thailand has to be seen to believe it
- You never know what or whose clothing you will get back from the shoreside laundries
- Half of the crew will read a lot of books
- Half of the crew will watch a lot of DVD's
- Half of the crew will have no time to read books or watch DVD's; they are reading repair manuals
- Ordering parts, Christmas gifts, shower gifts and birthday gifts while at sea is an acquired skill
- Satellite phones don't always work when you want them to
- Computers don't like salt water
- The Southern Cross is ablaze with light in the darkness of the southern seas
- Electronic and paper charts are not always accurate
- Brits and Americans are separated by a common language, according to Churchill, and as we have found
- Silver jewelry tarnishes at sea
- The Middle East deserts are really HOT!

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Dubai Trip

2011-04-18T14:12:00.005+09:30

Camels and sand in Salalah, Oman

Enjoying a day at the beach near Salalah, Oman

The United States of America Ambassador to Oman (left) with a couple of sailors

Quad lift in the Dubi indoor ski area, the largest indoor ski area in the world

More of the Dubai ski area. They have a luge run inside as well.

Nearly all taxis in Dubai and new Toyota cars

Riding a bus in Dubai

Olympic sized ice rink inside a mall in Dubai

Maria shopping in Dubai mall

Billboard on the outside of a building in Dubai picturing the present and past rulers

Hershey store in Dubai with shopper outside the store. Yes, the woman is facing the camera.

Atlantis Hotel, Dubai

Our favorite mall in Dubai

Typical street in the business district of Dubai

Cargo for the Dhows along Dubai Creek. These refrigerators are destined to Pakistan, India, and elsewhere around the Red Sea.

Dubai Architecture

More Dubai futuristic buildings

Dubai marina and buildings along Dubai Creek

Dubai skyline

More Dubai buildings and another marina

The Burj Al Arab hotel is built on an island in the Arabian sea and the only 7 star hotel in the world.

Another view of the Burj Al Arab hotel. It is designed in the shape of a sail of course!

Aquarium in the Dubai mall

Tallest building in the world, Dubai

Archaeology site near Salalah, Oman

Bowling night with the Blue Water Rally sailors in Salalah, Oman. Maria is watching their technique.

Another beach near Salalah, Oman

Lobster anyone?

Just our footprints on the beach

On the beach with other Blue Water Rally sailors

Deserted beach near Salalah, Oman

We need the umbrella for shade!

The beach at the Hilton Hotel, Salalah, Oman

Captain Steve ready for the desert

Oman geology!

More sales people in Salalah, Oman

Lunch time at the beach

The Hilton Hotel in Salalah, Oman. This is where we spend our days looking out at the port and enjoying the pool.

Frankincense market in Salalah, Oman with two of the Blue Water Rally sailors and the sales person.

Khat, the Somalia narcotic that was littered all over the captured cargo ship. The pirates are high all the time on this stuff while holding a gun to your head 24/7.

The chief officer from Bangladesh who was held captive aboard the cargo ship by pirates for 7 months. We were allowed onboard the ship when it docked in Salalah, Oman.

A just released cargo ship that the pirates kept for 7 months. It is arriving in Salalah, Oman, next to us.

Cruise ship that stopped in the port at Salalah, Oman. Notice the razor wire around the back of it to deter pirates!

S/Y Aspen – April 18, 2011 – Log #71
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)
Salalah, Oman

Oman said we had to leave the country! Well, not because we did anything wrong but just because our tourist visa expired and we were only able to renew it for a total of 2 months. So we had to leave the country, stay someplace else and then return to get a new visa.

We contacted our friendly US Ambassador and he said we would have to leave as well. Even the British, who once owned Oman, had no luck getting an extension.

Dubai, UAE is the closest place for us to go so we flew there. It is possible to drive from Salalah for something like 1,000 miles across the desert but it is not recommended because of sand storms, stray camels, high speed trucks and the chances of breakdowns with absolutely nothing for miles and miles across featureless desert.

Dubai - what a contrast to Oman! Dubai is the financial capital of the country UAE (United Arab Emirates). Dubai is a city within the UAE where sheikhs hold all the power. The sheikhs are descendants from the tribes who once roamed this region. They settled in what is now known as Dubai in the 1800's when they came from Abu Dhabi, the largest city in the UAE. The British claimed the states of what is now called the UAE as part of their world-wide empire not so long ago. However, the Brits left Dubai in 1971, not realizing what riches lay under the ground - OIL. The rest is history as Dubai flourished with staggering oil revenues.

There was actually things to do in Dubai like see the most modern skyline in the world and visit world-class hotels, shopping and restaurants. This is where movie stars, rock stars and the billionaires come to invest their money amongst the wealthiest nation on earth. Even the Saudi's come here for R&R, spending their oil money on investments in buildings.

Dubai has the largest mall, the tallest building, the only 7* hotel in the world, the largest and most man-made offshore islands and more modern buildings per square foot than anywhere in the world. Anywhere. Wow, we were impressed as you can see by the pictures on the blog.

It is in Dubai where oil revenues made a country and now foreign investment and tourism is sustaining the country. Today in Dubai there are $305 Billion in construction projects being built. Only 17% of the population of Dubai are natives. The rest are foreign workers! Imagine that, 83% of Dubai isn't even from here, they just work here and send money home. The workers are mainly from India, Philippines, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Thailand, Pakistan, Russia and even some x-pat US and British. It is quite a melting pot where cultures meet, work, play and there is no crime. What a concept!

We will leave Dubai on Wednesday and fly back to Salalah, Oman (with our new visa) where we will wait for our transport ship to arrive. It looks like Aspen will be shipped out sometime during the first part of May for the voyage to Turkey. The date is still a moving target with ships being coordinated from all over the globe to provide equipment, manpower and the necessary big ship to bring Aspen safely onboard and on her way out of here, along with us too.

We will keep you posted!

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Press Release

2011-03-13T13:24:00.000+09:30

S/Y Aspen – March 12, 2011 – Log #70
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)

"FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE : March 12th 2011
on Behalf of the yachts in The Blue Water Rally 2009-2011, presently based in Salalah, Oman
For authentication & further enquiry, please contact bwr2009.11@gmail.com

Blue Water Rally Participants decide to ship from Oman to Turkey

The 2009/2011 Blue Water Rally has effectively come to an end in Salalah, 17 months after the fleet left Gibraltar to sail around the world. The original rally plans concluded in Crete at the end of April, however the remaining skippers have decided to ship their yachts directly to Marmaris, Turkey.

This decision was taken when four American rallyers were fatally shot by pirates after their sailing yacht Quest was captured on passage from Mumbai to Oman and the subsequent capture of sailing Yacht ING with a Danish family onboard.

These incidents and other recent acts of piracy in the area have made proceeding in any direction from Salalah too high-risk for the participants. Strong recommendations from The UK Maritime Trade Organisation and The Maritime Liaison Office were decisive factors.

An action team was quickly set up by the skippers and crews to handle the planning and negotiations necessary to extricate the 20 yachts currently berthed in Salalah. A maritime transport company has now been contracted to ship the yachts. Over the coming weeks, crews are keeping themselves occupied with preparatory boat work and exploring some of what the Dhofar province of Oman has to offer."

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Salalah, Oman - Sand, Sand and More Sand!

2011-03-07T14:32:00.005+09:30

Desert headress for the captain

Incense trader in the souk (market)

Old Testament - Job's tomb

Job's tomb

Buying Frankincense

Frankincense trees in the desert

Fishing boats - Dhows

Ancient ruins of Sumhuram

Cave at Sumhuram

Ancient graves

Camel crossing sign on the road

Camels, camels everywhere!

S/Y Aspen – March 5, 2011 – Log #69
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)

We are safely anchored inside the secure port area in Salalah, the second largest city in Oman. Oman is a western friendly Sultanate ruled by a Sultan of course. The country is prosperous because of their oil and gas fields so unrest is at a minimum here.

Of course after we arrived here there were demonstrations in the northern part of the country because of all the unrest in Egypt, Libya and throughout the rest of the Arab nations!

But for now all of the protests in Oman seems minor and we should be fine.

Sail on, sail on and sail safe Aspen…

Oman

2011-02-28T14:09:00.001+09:30

S/Y Aspen – February 28, 2011 – Log #68
Position: 16 degrees 56’ N 054 degrees 00’ E (UTC +4 Hours)

The moon rose full last night behind the stern of Aspen after we left Mumbai (Bombay). We had been 6 days at sea, with bioluminescence filling our wake, the Southern Cross on our port side, 5 other Rally yachts in formation behind us and pirate ships along with NATO military forces lurking among the waves.

Our little group of 6 boats managed to leave Bombay, but not without incident. One boat was tangled in a large rope and another boat's engine overheated, all within the space of the first 20 minutes of our 1,250 mile voyage! Further adventures at sea included the loss of a boat's autopilot and the loss of electrical charging on another boat. We have resorted to towing these boats at times so that we can finish the crossing together.

We left India, a country of astounding contrasts. The caste system still exists with the untouchables at the bottom of the pile of humanity. With our group of 4 walking the streets we were mugged but easily escaped harm. The Scotsman with us thumped two of the scum before they retreated. Captain Steve cast his evil eye upon the other two, signaling 'don't you dare' before they quickly departed.

I now have complete admiration and compassion for any of the computer support people who answer questions when my calls are routed to the help centers in India. Knowing what type of conditions they live and survive in is truly remarkable.

The passage to Oman was windless. We motored for 1250 miles in 11 days, constantly calculating if we had enough fuel to make it to Oman. Two of the boats we were traveling with received fuel cans from the other boats who had extra fuel. Another boat had to be towed for 6 days to conserve fuel. Yet the sea remained indifferent as it flowed slowly westward with our little group.

We were on constant pirate watch, 24 hours a day, scanning the horizon, watching the radar screen and contacting the UK and NATO forces to obtain updates on the current whereabouts of the scourge. Maria called out course changes to the fleet, watched for suspicious activity and maintained our position at the head of the group when Captain Steve was trying to get some sleep.

Then there was the hijacking, kidnapping and 4 days later the murder of all the members of Quest's crew by Somali pirates before we arrived in Oman. So many questions remain - why did Quest reject our offers in Mumbai to sail with a group? Why did Quest dismiss the Blue Water Rally safe route and steer their course directly through the known pirate area? Why did Quest knowingly endanger the lives of their crew? Why why why. The answers will remain secreted away forever. May Phyllis, Bob, Jean and Scott rest in peace, while the pirates deal with the devil.

We arrived with the rising sun into the safe haven of Oman. We have more difficult sailing ahead of us, yet Aspen and our spirit remains strong.

Note: There will be an important update shortly.

Sail on sail on and sail safe Aspen…

ETA Salalah

2011-02-26T00:15:00.001+09:30

S/Y Aspen – February 23, 2011 – Log #65 Supplemental
Position: Not Given for Security Reasons (UTC +5.5 Hours)

ETA Salalah

Aspen and crew, along with the 5 other boats we are traveling with, will arrive in Salalah, Oman early tomorrow morning.

The horrific news about our friends on the sailboat Quest has saddened us beyond belief.

Sail safe, sail safe Aspen

Steve and Maria

Bombay (Mumbai), India

2011-02-11T15:17:00.005+09:30

Gateway of India, Bombay, India

Hmmmm

Bicycles

Housing in Bombay

Writing on the wall...

Church

Dinghy dock at the foot of the Gateway of India. There are always lots of people around.

Fishing nets

Veggies

The market

Haircut!

Marine Drive in Bombay

Maria shopping

Bombay (Mumbai), India Skyline

Just another protest

Walking the streets

Bombay Taxi

Grid lock!

Vasco da Gama's one-time grave.

S/Y Aspen – February 11, 2011 – Log #64
Position: 18 degrees 54’ N 072 degrees 50’ E (UTC +5.5 Hours)

Bombay - the stuff of legends! Of course the name has now been changed to Mumbai in 1995 for some strange reason but it is still the fabled center for trade in the far east. There were 16,000,000 people in this city in 2001 but that number is closer to 20,000,000 today.

The crush of people is unlike anything we have ever seen. If you saw the movie Slum Dog Millionaire then this is the place you will recognize. Bombay is exactly as depicted in the movie, especially the slums. The abject poverty is indescribable to anyone, even those who have seen the worst of Central or South America. The largest slum in the world is here in Bombay as evidenced by Captain Steve getting a bit disoriented during one of his runs. Ummm, better turn back quickly!!

Then there are the buildings that rival anything in London. India was an English colony until 1947 when the Brits departed and left their lasting legacy with the enormous stone architecture built in the 1800's that defines Bombay. The Gateway of India stands at the foot of where we land our dinghy to go ashore. Across the street is the famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel where the 2008 terrorist bombing occurred. The hotel has been repaired and only the rich and famous are welcome there. The Royal Bombay Yacht Club is nearby but lowly around the world sailors are not allowed inside, much to our dismay.

Visibility here is around 100 yards, on a good day. The air is extremely polluted, more than anywhere in the world except China of course. The foul air hangs over Bombay and breathing is difficult. There are no pollution controls here, raw sewage runs through the streets and beggars number in the thousands nearly everywhere. It is quite a place to visit, just don't drink the water!

We can't wait to be on our way toward the troubles in Egypt!!

We have posted some photos on the blog site too.

Sail on sail on Aspen…

Cochin, India

2011-01-30T21:01:00.005+09:30

The passage from Sri Lanka to India

This is a Tuk Tuk. 125 cc engine with 3 wheels.

Ferry/fishing boat

Ferry terminal; 8 cents for a ride!

Fishing village in the harbor

Aspen in the marina

Customs in India with some very old papers!

Sailors filling out form after form at customs and immigration

Chinese fishing nets - Cochin, India harbor

Where the convent/orphanage is located

Maria at the convent/orphanage with sister Emily

Talking on the cell phone at the convent/orphanage

Cochin town

S/Y Aspen – February 1, 2011 – Log #63
Position: 09 degrees 58’ N 076 degrees 15’ E (UTC +5.5 Hours)

Ok, you are probably tired of hearing this but we had another horrendous passage. This time it was from Sri Lanka to India. Aspen was surfing along at over 8 knots with 40 knots of wind pushing her toward the subcontinent. Wow, we were flying for 2 days until we got into shelter behind India. Other Rally boats lost sails overboard, torn sails, rigging failures and huge water into the boats.

Arriving in India we were able to gather together at the only marina in India! It is at the Bolgatty Palace, built in the 1700's by the Dutch and later used by the British when they owned India. Today it is a hotel adjacent to the city of Kochi on the southwest coast of India. The local tour boats cruise by the marina and we are constantly waving as the locals snap our pictures.

The Indian curry food here is really good! Just don't drink the water!! A couple of dollars buys you an entire meal that is really tasty.

Captain Steve runs through the streets early in the morning to avoid the masses of people, buses and took tuk tuks that ply the town. People greet him with strange looks, probably because they are not used to seeing a white guy running for pleasure he believes. Even the many dogs seem startled as he runs by.

Maria had a massage at the Palace. She said it was interesting because she was lying on a huge, solid, highly polished mahogany table as they poured oil over her. The oil made the table very slippery and she felt like a billiard ball being pushed all around the wooden table as she was massaged. That is an Indian oil massage!

The grocery shopping is very limited here with virtually no western things to buy. There are fruits and vegetables of course but not much else. Coca Cola is not available, just Pepsi, because it seems that Coca Cola was rumored to give some people headaches so they banned the drink!

Of course we had an adventure in Kochi town. Since 1952 Maria's mother has been helping a nun in India by sending clothes and some money to help her with a small convent/orphanage. We learned that the convent/orphanage was located in a town called Kochi - the same place we are! Well, we spent several hours riding around the dusty dirty streets of this old town in tuk tuks, spending upwards of 75 cents doing so (transportation is very cheap!). Finally we stumbled upon the convent/orphanage. Talking our way inside Maria sat beside a nun but not the nun that her mother had been helping for all these years. That nun was out of town!! The sister called the wayward nun and Maria talked with her on the cell phone. Oh well, at least we found the convent/orphanage!

The sails we have ahead of us will be a challenge. The Somalian pirates have expanded their target area eastward, nearly to India now. Yesterday the Indian Navy sunk one of the pirate mother ships. They are saying to the pirates that they will not survive if they come this way. We just hope the US warships will take the same attitude when defending us as we depart India! Then there is Egypt with the revolution there. Transiting the Suez Canal in Egyptian waters will be another interesting adventure. So stay tuned.

Sail on sail on Aspen…

Sri Lanka

2011-01-21T16:43:00.009+09:30

Formal dinner at the famous Hill Club on Sri Lanka

Some of the Rally group at the top of Lion Rock, Sri Lanka

Tea covered hillsides

Majestic views on Sri Lanka

Close encounter with the elephants!

What is that behind you Maria?

More of the elephant herd with a 2 week old baby elephant

Elephants bathing and getting a cool dip in the river

Watch out for the elephant crossing the road.

Tea plantation on Sri Lanka

Even the Monks like the view from the top of Lion Rock

Maria getting a massage at the spice plantation. Hugo is making sure it is done correctly!

Monkeys are everywhere!

Maria and Steve from the top of Lion Rock. It was quite a climb!

A big Buddha!

Another big Buddha

More Buddhas everywhere!

Another Rally birthday party! Happy birthday Pete on Fai Tira.

Cycling in Sri Lanka - not for the faint hearted!

Native dancer

Fire walking - hot hot hot!

They really like their fire in Sri Lanka!

Dancers in Kandy, Sri Lanka

Welcome to Sri Lanka! This is on a geophysical company work boat - they must have known captain Steve was coming!

Rescue Tape (red) to the rescue!!!

The captain working to fix the leak

Pounding our way across the Indian Ocean in 30 knots of wind. The horizon is not straight because Aspen is heeling a lot!

Sailing in Thailand

Incredible Thailand sailing vistas

S/Y Aspen – January 21, 2011 – Log #62
Position: 06 degrees 00’ N 080 degrees 13’ E (UTC +5.5 Hours)

It was a really rough passage from Phuket to Sri Lanka. Actually a tropical depression developed on our route as we sailed westward. We only had 35 knot winds which were really bad but the yachts behind us got even worse weather, right on the bow of course!

It took the boats that were behind us 5 extra days to make port due to the nasty conditions. The Indian Ocean is a difficult body of water to sail in!

For us the winds were nasty and the fishing boats were in groups of 50 or more, right in front of us at night, 2 days away from Sri Lanka. It was at this time that we began taking on water. The bilge pump was cycling on and off so it was time to investigate. Captain Steve searched everywhere for the leak and finally opened the engine compartment to see a geyser like Old Faithful erupting from the back of our trusty diesel engine. It was a miracle that the engine had not already stopped.

Working feverishly the illustrious captain uttered several choice words as he was trying to stem the water flow. Luckily he used Rescue Tape that actually lived up to it's name! The water slowed to a trickle and Aspen continued on her way to Sri Lanka.

Arriving in Sri Lanka were were relieved to say the least. The Navy boarded our boat in the harbor before letting us enter the inner harbor where we were berthed against the concrete wharf. Waves of officials inspected Aspen and departed with liquor and t-shirts that they decided they needed as a remembrance!

The engine repairs on Aspen were not going well because there are really no skilled people to work on sailboats. We decided to unwind and take a tour through the countryside to see the real Sri Lanka.

We enjoyed the sights of tea plantations, spice gardens, elephants in the open fields and wading through the river, monkeys crossing the roads everywhere, and the crowded towns along the way.

Then it was back to the boat and the continuing repairs. Captain Steve was becoming more and more frustrated trying to dislodge a critical bolt and literally spent days struggling with it. Once again it was the Rally to the rescue as two of the other captains succeeded in getting the stuck bolt off! Oh happy days, we can really leave Sri Lanka and sail to India!!! We thought we might have to take up residency in Sri Lanka.

Sail on sail on Aspen…

India Ocean and Bay of Bengal?

2011-01-21T12:01:00.002+09:30

SY Aspen and crew coming into Tipperary Waters Marina, Darwin, Australia

S/Y Aspen – January 6, 2011 – Log #61
Position: 07 degrees 08’ N 089 degrees 39’ E (UTC +7.0 Hours)

So where are the Indians, the Sioux, Arapahoe, Shoshone? I see no buffalo, no tepees. I don't hear the echo of drums in the distance. Bay of Bengal? Ha! So where are these tigers?

All around us is only water. The occasional dolphin and passage of a violent squall with threatening bolts of lightning interrupt the solitude that engulfs us as we sail further westward.

When we are sailing across the oceans of the world we have had time to reflect on a lot of things, as long as we are not repairing some part that has broken on Aspen of course! This passage across part of the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal is no different.

The storms we have had for the past three nights has set off a spark and allowed me to reflect about the passage of our lives so far away from home.

One of my perceptions of Maria is that of a nurse, continually helping others so that they might live a healthy life. To me that is pretty amazing. As I sit here looking at the rope burn on my hand, the torn skin on my other hand from the winch and the bruises on Maria from being thrown around the boat I wonder if we both could use a little tender loving care? Ah but we will heal with time.

I think back to the Leadville Trail 100 mile race. That race has defined my life for 28 years and last year I was at sea, missing it. Yet even now I can recall the distant sound from a solitary Indian drum greeting me a short distance down the trail every year in the pre-morning darkness at that race. I also jubilantly appreciated that same drumbeat as I approached the finish line of that exhausting race so many times in the darkness. For an individual to remain hidden in the forest, sitting in solitude, with only a drumbeat to communicate their appreciation of my accomplishment is very noble and very much appreciated as I now have time to reflect on that event out here on the sea.

We should make landfall in the country of Sri Lanka in about 5 days and two weeks after that, Cochin, India. Once we leave India some strange things are going to happen. Our blog will still go out but there will be no position data given. The reason for the secrecy is probably apparent to most of you - pirates. Not the Arrrrrrh pirates of the Caribbean but the all too real nasty pirates from Africa and the Middle East.

Our goal is to get Aspen to the country of Djibouti and past the pirate areas safely. Hmmm, what wild tales await us!

The photo is Aspen coming into Tipperary Waters marina in Darwin, Australia. It was taken by Sheila on Miss Tippy, a Rally boat.

Sail on sail on Aspen…

Happy New Year 2011 to everyone!

2011-01-01T13:20:00.003+09:30

New Year's Eve dinner at Patong Beach, Thailand with Blue Water Rally sailors. We are on the right in the background.

Just a few of the fireworks as seen at anchor in Patong Beach, Thailand

S/Y Aspen – January 1, 2011 – Log #60
Position: 08 degrees 10’ N 098 degrees 20’ E (UTC +7.0 Hours)

The fireworks show on Patong Beach was similar to Armageddon. The beach, town and adjoining road stretch for about 5 miles around a horseshoe shaped bay that is lined with shops, restaurants and many many many bars. As the stroke of midnight came closer the town and beach erupted in flames, explosions and a night sky that lit up like a new dawn. This was a massive display that surpassed anything we have ever seen on New Year's Eve!

The viewing of the spectacular event was safest from the deck of our friends sailboat! On land the sky rockets are not only fired into the air but some are fired horizontally through the streets, among the thousands who are wandering around watching the fun. Firecrackers are strung from every available tree, waiting to be lit at the strike of midnight. Miniature hot air balloons are also sent skyward, powered by a flame that heats a small bag and lifting the little orange flame high into the night sky above our anchorage. There must have been a thousand little flames over our heads as the bags drifted with the trade winds.

At the stroke of midnight the roar and shock waves of the exploding fireworks was deafening from our great viewing point, rocking in the waves. The music pulsated through the air creating a scene with the shooting colors that seemed surreal to say the least.

2 AM rolled around and the displays continued unabated. It was time to try and sleep for us so we just rocked with the celebrations safely out in the bay.

Tomorrow we are leaving for Sri Lanka, a 9 day sail away to the country/island off the south coast of India.

Sail on sail on Aspen…

Steve and Maria

Merry Christmas from Thailand!

2010-12-23T19:18:00.001+09:30

Merry Christmas to all!

A Sailor’s Christmas in Phuket

2010-12-21T10:13:00.005+09:30

Maria and Susan shoe shopping in Phuket

Sala Resort & Spa, our Christmas present to ourselves.

Our room at Sala came with our own pool too!

Maria and her new lady boy friends

Steve getting a fish massage

Blue Water Rally women at a birthday party

Thai dancers with Captain Steve

Lunch!!!

Hugo and Juliet, also part of the Blue Water Rally on Laroobaa. Hugo has a bandage on his head - must have been a shark attack.

Chrissy and Mark from Blue Magic, another Rally couple.

Tsunami warning signs are all over Thailand now.

Typical resort in Phuket

Food cart in Phuket

Night time at Patong Beach, Phuket

Phuket town gold sculpture

Touring around Phuket on the west coast

Royal Phuket Yacht Club beach

Phi Phi Don street. Where else can you wear scuba tanks along the main street?

Long tail boats at anchor in Thailand

The Emerald Cave. We swam 300 feet through a pitch black cave entrance and arrived inside of the Hong and onto this garden of Eden!

S/Y Aspen – December 21, 2010 – Log #59
Position: 08 degrees 10’ N 098 degrees 20’ E (UTC +7.0 Hours)

A Sailor’s Christmas in Phuket

Sail on the horizon got a landfall rendezvous
The captain steers a well-known course he steers her straight and true
As he trims the sheets and sings the songs he learned on boats and bars
These sailors spend their Christmas in the harbor ‘neath the stars

They’ve traveled through the doldrums, shallow seas and hurricanes
They’ve logged many thousand soggy miles with water on their brains
But Christmas ‘tis the season better suited for dry land
They’ll tell some lies, meet some spies and dance barefoot in the sand

These sailors spend their Christmas in the harbor on the hook
Phuket is hot and muggy so no work today,
Let’s shelve the old logbook

The mast and shrouds are filled with lights
‘Neath the waning of the moon
There is an air of celebration within the realm of King Neptune

Christmas is a time that’s filled with music, rum and cheer
The waterfront is reveling - the season has begun
These sailors spend their Christmas in a harbor having fun!

The continents keep drifting but the children sing and play
‘Cause nothing really matters, after all it’s Christmas Day

(with apologies to Jimmy…)

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all our friends, wherever they may be!!

There are new pictures posted on the blog site too.

Sail on, sail on Aspen...

Love,
Steve and Maria

Malaysia

2010-12-04T17:08:00.004+09:30

Trying to sail through the shipping lane near Singapore and the Malacca Straits

Marina Keppel Bay, Singapore. Notice Aspen in the the far background.

Big ships and little sailboats

Klang, Malaysia. On a floating pontoon in the river. Notice the filthy water and all the trash!

Raffles Marina, Singapore. We did not stay here but it was a nice place to visit.

World's highest towers (Petronas Towers) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

An advertisement for a well-know tobacco product?

Shopping in Kuala Lumpur

A ground view of the Petronas Towers

Grocery shopping in Klang, Malaysia

S/Y Aspen – December 4, 2010 – Log #58
Position: 06 degrees 11’ N 099 degrees 46’ E (UTC +8.0 Hours)

After enjoying the excesses of Singapore we left on a fair tide, sailing to Malaysia and through the Malacca Straits. As we exited the beautiful Keppel marina one of our fellow Rally boats ran right onto a rather large reef. This was strange because the reef was marked by a building sized bright red marker! This was in broad daylight too. Luckily they have a steel boat and after several anxious minutes managed to get themselves free and underway again.

Then it was out into the dreaded Malacca Straits. This relatively narrow body of water is probably the busiest waterway in the world with huge ships from all corners of the globe passing through it. China, Japan, all of the Middle East countries, European ships and even a few ships from North America were all clustered around little Aspen. The supertankers glided by silently with their massive cargos bound for foreign ports. These Straits are also world-renown for pirate attacks on ships! Despite naval vessels patrolling these waters, daily boardings still occur by the pirates.

We traveled in a safety group of 8 boats northward, right on the edge of the large ship channel to avoid the ever present fishing boats too. These fishing boats are unlit at night and lay fishing nets right in front of us or where ever else they please, except inside the shipping channel. There the big ships just chew the nets up so the fishermen avoid the channel where we decided to go. Despite being right on the edge of the channel, the huge ships passed within one quarter of a mile from us at times. Our trusty AIS sounded out a warning with each new ship so our night watch appeared to be akin to a casino with the flashing lights and alarms going off all night long!

Malaysia is fairly poor, similar to Indonesia but without the corruption, at least what we have seen so far. There are Malaysians, Indians, Chinese and Japanese who make up the majority population of Malaysia.

Our first stop was at Port Klang, 20 miles from Kuala Lumpur. Port Klang is 15 miles up the most polluted river we have ever seen. The smell was strong enough to make flowers wilt and dogs cry. Exactly 15 miles up the river we came upon a floating dock near the middle of the river. This is home to the Royal Salangor Yacht Club. We tied up to the floating dock and watched huge piles of rubbish, as large as small islands make their way down stream, sometimes colliding with our boat and staying there. There was no electricity on the dock and we did not run our generator or engine to charge the batteries because the river water would clog the filters. That would not be a pretty sight. Instead we made the batteries work overtime and become very depleted!

We stayed 2 nights so that we could tour Kuala Lumpur, the capital. What an enigma that place is! They have the Petronas Towers, the tallest buildings in the world, or at least they were until one of the Middle Eastern countries decided to build a taller one. The city calls itself a mini-Singapore but it has quite a ways to go before that is really true. Bargaining for pirated DVD's in China Town was fun and we ended up with original movie DVD's in original packages for about $1.25 for any of the latest movie releases. We now have lots of movies to watch while on passage.

Right now we are sitting in a very nice marina at Langkawi, the northern-most island in Malaysia. The Marina is called Telaga Harbour Marina. We will leave from this popular tourist oasis in a few days to spend Christmas in Phuket, Thailand, only 120 miles away. There we will clean, check and repair Aspen, getting her ready for our next journey - across the Indian Ocean. There will also be lots of parties to attend once we are in the marina.

More pictures will be posted shortly on our blog site!

Sail on sail on Aspen...

Singapore

2010-11-25T12:28:00.007+09:30

Our marina, Marina Keppel Bay, Singapore

The grounds around the marina

Just the closest mall to the marina - stunning!

Mark, from the Rally yacht Blue Magic, getting a fish massage

Downtown Singapore at Clarke Quay

Walking along the river

Is that a ship in the air??? Yes, it is a restaurant and park area in downtown Singapore

Shopping on Orchard Road, Singapore. Probably the best shopping area in the world.

S/Y Aspen – November 24, 2010 – Log #57
Position: 01 degrees 14’ N 103 degrees 49’ E (UTC +8.0 Hours)

Wow, what a change 20 miles brings! We left Indonesia on a rising tide and 20 miles later arrived in ultra-modern Singapore.

Sailing across the busiest shipping lanes in the world was quite a challenge as we tried not to get run over by the massive number of ships traversing the Singapore Straits. Our AIS system identified 100 targets in our path but the AIS unit cannot handle more than that number so there were probably twice as many ships around us. Of course we had squalls, a water spout and lightning accompanying us on our short 4 hour trip.

Once we were inside the breakwater we saw a sight that was absolutely stunning (see the attachment). This is the marina we are staying in. It is ultra-modern as is all of Singapore. Restaurants, shopping on Orchard Road, parks, zoos, China Town, India Town, shopping malls that dwarf anything we have ever seen in the US are everywhere! Luckily Singapore is where east meets west so there are a tremendous number shops from Europe, the US and elsewhere in the world. This is one amazing city/country.

We celebrated our Thanksgiving dinner by going to Raffles, the original home to the famous hotel is here in Singapore. This is where the Singapore Sling drink was invented. We had to try one and afterward ate their famous curry buffet. This was a really special treat for us and hopefully our credit card will pay for this!

For the next few days we will luxuriate in the excesses of Singapore before heading north to Malaysia. There are more pictures on our blog if you are interested too.

Sail on sail on Aspen...

The Equator Again!

2010-11-17T17:26:00.003+09:30

Typical fishing boat plying the Kumai River, Borneo.

Kumai, gateway to the Orangutans and a very remote town 25 miles up the river.

Fishing boats that surrounded Aspen when we were anchored.

Typical Indonesian fishing boat at sea.

Smaller Indonesia fishing boat.

Bali, the resort island of Indonesia.

Transporting a stone carving in Bali.

S/Y Aspen – November 15, 2010 – Log #56
Position: 0 degrees 0’ S 104 degrees 55’ E (UTC +8.0 Hours)
Sailing

The crash and banging of the mainsail shook me from my peaceful daydream as I absently watched the deep blue sea flow past Aspen's keel. The Tradewinds have died, leaving us nearly stationary on our journey northward toward the equator. But the wind shall return and sail on we will.

It seems so long ago that Aspen was sailing south with the Southern Cross guiding her across the vast Pacific Ocean and into the land of so many dreams. Yet today, Aspen sails northward and will cross the Equator into the northern hemisphere, carrying with her two sailors profoundly changed by the journey at hand.

Smiling faces, storms, ships passing in the night, brave fishermen plying their trade out on the sea, surly government officials, deadly and dangerous creatures that walk on land and swim in the sea, volcanoes tsunamis and earthquakes rattling the planet, the vivid colors of sunset and the eternal welcome of a new dawn at sea are a small sampling of the wonders left in Aspen's wake.

Many become what they must be, not what they want to be. We are fortunate to live our dream and be what we want to be: sailor, traveler and explorer experiencing the treasures of the world. It doesn't get any better than this!

We hope you are enjoying our voyage vicariously with us. We have now sailed over halfway around the world on Aspen and the next half promises to be at least as exciting as the first half. The pendulum swings backwards and forwards so stay tuned!

Sail on sail on Aspen...

Bali

2010-11-02T13:46:00.002+09:30

Kupang, Indonesia. Captain cook walked up this beach!

Bali dragon dance.

Bali dancer

More of the dragon dance

Aspen at anchor in the Gilli islands, Indonesia

Captain Steve working on the non-functioning windlass (the mighty machine that pulls the anchor up and lets it down).

Sailing along

Tracking the dangerous Komodo Dragons

A sea of fishing boats

Another fishing boat in our path

Typical gas station along the road in Kupang, Indonesia

Transportation in the Gilli Islands

To visit a temple you must wear a sarong

Statues are everywhere!

The holy temple in Bali

The Mansion Hotel gardens, where we had a nice stay

The Mansion Hotel lobby in Bali

Indonesia sailing

More Indonesia sailing with fishing boats on the horizon

A typical restaurant

Feeding the monkeys

This monkey was fascinated by the reflection in the mirror

Blue Water Rally yacht Talismano aground near the marina in Bali

Locals watching us!

Rice terraces in Bali

Rural road in Bali

Local fishing platform in deep water. No lights or anything else to help you avoid it!

Blue Water Rally sailors out for a day away from the boats in Kupang.

The entrance to the Komodo Island group.

Our guides for the day in Kupang.

Trimming sails!

Motorbikes are everywhere!!!

The temple where the cremation will be held.

Shrine to the late king and to be used during the cremation.

Waiting for the cremation to begin in Ubud, Bali.

Volcano that we sailed past enroute to Bali.

Another nice volcano in Indonesia.

Indonesia - Legalities, Temples, Shopping and even a Big Fire

Hold off on the lawyers, guns and money for now! We are finally checked into Indonesia, legally. It was quite a process that took 2 days and quite a few gifts to the officials but we have permission to remain in Indonesia finally.

The tsunami and earthquake occurred well northwest of us so we missed those too!

Aspen is at the Bali Marina, a dilapidated place they call a marina. The docks are crumbling, what little electricity there is functions erratically and the marina is in a very remote part of the island, near the local fishing fleet. Did we mention that it is really hot here? Really HOT!!! The air is stifling, and the humidity matches the air temperature. There are very few places that have air-conditioning here and we can't use ours on Aspen because of the power issues.

But the restaurant at the marina is nice and the local food is good. Prices are cheap here for just about everything. However, you have to bargain hard for everything you buy, except groceries of course. It is challenging to pay 80% less than the asking price every time!

So where is the Bali of legend? Well, things change with time and most of Bali is very crowded, noisy and busy. However, outside of the main town things are better. We are now in Ubud, the cultural center of Bali in a very nice hotel called the Mansion. The people are nice with the local Hindu people taking care of us.

Bali is Hindu with temples every 100 feet or so! Everywhere you look there is a temple. We must wear a sarong to enter the temples but they rent them to you outside, no worries. They have traditional dances inside the temple that are colorful and always tell an interesting story.

Maria enjoys shopping but in Bali you cannot shop, you buy. If you pick up an item you may just as well have bought it. Asking a price for something also tells the Balinese that you have bought the item. That is when Captain Steve steps in and has to negotiate a price. Having a good poker face really helps! We can never look happy when we buy something because that shows weakness. Instead we celebrate once we return to the boat and look at our purchases. The shop keepers or street vendors always ask where we are from and when they hear USA they always light up because of the ties with Obama during his youth here.

We thought we were going to rent a car here but after our first day of taking a taxi we decided that demolition derby is not fun for us. The driving is indescribably horrible in all of Bali. Police officers lurk around every corner looking for rental cars so they can pull them over and fine them on the spot for any made-up traffic violation. But there are no rules here and practically no traffic laws so any fines are whatever they want them to be. Strange! We hired a driver and a vehicle for the same price as a rental car with all the fines so it works out well when we want to go somewhere.

We decided to escape the heat, dirt and noise of the marina for a few days and are at Ubud as we said. The Mansion is a 5 star hotel with lavish gardens, air conditioning, huge suites, attentive staff and best of all a great spa. Maria has only had 3 massages in 2 days so far. I think she is going for a record! The massages are pretty inexpensive so we can afford to splurge on them.

Today is a historic day in Ubud. They are cremating the old king! Yes, he passed away and lucky for us the cremation is today. We visited the site and it is adorned with huge monuments surrounded by hoards of people waiting for the big fire in the main street where the cremation will be held. There will be 6,300 pall bearers carrying the body. They also sacrificed a sacred cow and the cow's head rests near the king's body. It is quite smelly yet impressive to see it on a large plate at the foot of the temple.

We hope you enjoy the photos on the blog site!

Sail on sail on Aspen...

Sailors in the Blue Water Rally

2010-10-09T09:00:00.003+09:30

S/Y Aspen – October 9, 2010 – Log #51
Position: 12 degrees 28’ S 130 degrees 51.0’ E (UTC +9.5 Hours)
Darwin, Australia

Instead of telling more stories about being chased by crocs on the beaches, swimming with deadly box jellyfish or watching aborigines throw boomerangs and play didgeridoos, we thought you might like to hear about the people we are traveling with in the Blue Water Rally.

Most of the people in the Rally have taken 2 years away from their jobs and careers to sail around the world with a group of like-minded people. Once the Rally is finished, life will be resumed, just with a 2 year gap that has been filled with a wondrous adventure!

11 countries are represented in the Rally: United Kingdom, Scotland (they consider themselves separate from England), Ireland, Sweden, Spain, Iceland, Holland, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the USA represented by us. The UK accounts for most of the Rally people simply because the Blue Water Rally is managed from England.

David is wearing the red shirt

David and Susan (this is Susan in the picture with Pete - see below) are from Scotland and sail Enchantress together. It took us several months to finally understand their accents and their language! David and Susan love to invite us and other Rally people onto their 40 foot boat to have sundowners. Watching the big orange orb slip into the sea takes on a new meaning with David and Susan because this occasion is followed by a wee dram. That means whiskey, as any Scottsman knows. Coming from the world's best whiskey country David has more whiskey onboard his boat than he has diesel for his engine. This is not your Wild Turkey whiskey either but the best whiskey money can buy, single malt, made in Scotland of course. Maria and I have not quite developed a taste for this deadly drink, as yet!

Gaultine III is owned and sailed by Stuart, Lou and Caroline from Australia. Gaultine III is by far the most interesting boat in the Rally, not only because it is the largest boat at 60 feet. Stuart is married to Lou and they sail together on certain segments while Caroline then joins the boat and sails the next leg as Lou departs. Sometimes all three of them sail together. Stuart is very attentive to both of the ladies whenever they are together. It is quite an arrangement to say the least. Stuart and the ladies finished their around the world voyage once they made landfall in Australia with us, many years after they originally set out from Australia. By the way, Stuart is 70 years young but the ladies are in their 50's. We will miss having Gualtine III in the Rally now!

Pete (in the picture with Susan above) and John and Jeremy on Fai Tira are sailing together and they are from the UK. Pete and John own the boat together and Jeremy is a friend who sails with them. No, they are not gay as they always announce whenever they are introduced. Their wives join them every few months to sail a short portion of the Rally route with them. Their boat is a 40 something steel boat that has a tendency to hit reefs and lie on it's side in the mud when the tide goes out. Pete has an eye for the ladies and is the most entertaining person on the Rally! John is a vegetarian so living onboard a boat where two people eat meat and one doesn't makes for some interesting meals.

Michael and Ger on Simanderal sailed as far as Australia and will probably join the next Rally as it comes through to resume their voyage back to the Mediterranean. Michael is from Scotland and Ger is the representative from Ireland. Michael and Ger have the fastest boat in the Rally and sail it with amazing skill. Their boat is a 45 foot Swedish built boat and it is lightning fast. The Swedes have perfected the art of building ocean sailing yachts and their boats are second to none. They crossed the Pacific Ocean in 2nd place, making landfall mere hours after the fastest catamaran arrived in the Marquesas. Ger is as tall as Maria with sparkling Irish eyes and is always searching for the best menu's at each port. Just ask Ger where to eat and you won't go wrong! Maria and Ger usually think alike when talking about food.

Steve and Katrin (on the right) on Island Kea have a 49 foot sailboat that needs a new engine. They just replaced their generator (that was expensive) and they now hope their engine keeps running until they get to the Mediterranean. Katrin is from Iceland so hearing her sing happy birthday in Icelandic is a real treat! It seems that her family lives right next to an active volcanic vent so they have plenty of hot water all the time. Tom (see below) sails on Island Kea.

There is Tom who is from southern England. Tom is also known as Ocean Hippie. Tom crews on any Rally boat that needs him. He had already sailed around the world once as crew on another person's boat and joined this rally to do it again, well, partially. Tom decided that he is slowly running out of beer money so he will stop in Australia and work for a while and then probably catch the next rally as it comes past. Tom is the consummate computer geek. He can crack, fix or destroy most anything to do with computers. He is a lifesaver for us on the Rally when we need computer help. If you buy Tom a beer or 3 he is most happy working hours on end to solve your problem.

Hans and Monica (the couple in the front right of the photo) are from Sweden and sail a Swedish catamaran named Nati Bou. Yes, they are the fastest boat in the Rally and Hans races trimarans and catamarans. His last boat was a high-tech trimaran that he managed to turn upside down when he sailed too fast and hit a big wave. The boat was destroyed and Hans decided to get a less high tech boat for this voyage. His wife Monica is an excellent sailor as well and managed to retrieve one of their cockpit cushions when it flew into the turbulent water between Fiji and Vanuatu. As Hans backed the boat up to the cushion in mountainous seas Monica nearly went for a swim but managed to hold on and save the cushion. Hans speaks excellent English because he was an exchange student who went to high school in Nebraska - Captain Steve's birthplace! It is a small world.

Then there is Duco on Briet from Holland (no photo). Well, Duco actually lived in Australia where he was a professor who taught engineering and it was in Australia that Duco joined the Rally and it is where he finished with us. Duco could fix anything electrical on your boat. He fixed Aspen's autopilot in Vanuatu so that we could sail to Australia. Duco has the smallest boat in the Rally at 34 feet. Duco also had the most electrical problems because when Aspen was knocked down, Duco's boat was also knocked down but his entire boat was flooded in the process and all of his electronics shorted out! It was quite a mess and Duco is still replacing the electronics on his boat.

On our trip so far, Maria and Captain Steve have been able to learn a new language (English), appreciate the flavor of whiskey, learn advanced sailing techniques, learn how to fix everything and anything on our boat and travel with Gaultine III. What an adventure this has been so far and more is awaiting us!

Sail on sail on Aspen...

Steve and Maria

Watching an Eruption!

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We hope you like the video!

Vanuatu Rocks

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That was a big eruption!!!

Looking at the rocks...

This piece of lava landed on the trail earlier in the afternoon. It is still hot!

A great view of the beast, the volcano of course.

Just a small eruption

Maria on her way up up up to the rim to get a better view.

This was taken on the volcano's rim. Notice the nice smoke in the background?

The hike to the crater rim

Thar she is!

Our room in Tanna, Vanuatu. Don't you like the mosquito netting?!?

The Vanuatu International Half Marathon. Notice the runners in yellow behind me without shoes.

It's a Boy!

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S/Y Aspen – August 20, 2010 – Log #49
Position: 20 degrees 36’ S 149 degrees 1.0’ E (UTC +10 Hours)
Australia

Welcome to the 2nd half of our great journey around the world!

It is fitting that we start our new blog with this story. We celebrate a new ocean and a new grandson all at the same time!

Timothy Isaac Siguaw with Maria, Zach and Heidi

Maria flies from Australia, the far side of the world, arrives in Colorado, and in less than 12 hours Zach and Heidi gave birth to a healthy baby boy named Timothy Isaac Siguaw.

The baby was born at 4:40 AM, Friday, August 20, 2010 and weighed 6 lb. 15 oz. He is 21 1/4 inches long, about 2 inches longer than Zach when he was born. Mother and baby are doing well!

It was really special to have Maria arrive for the birth and this was well planned by Captain Steve of course. I am still on the boat, trying to get repairs completed before we are ready to continue our journey while Maria is enjoying being in civilization again!

It seems that Timothy has pretty big feet for a newborn. This is a sure sign of a long distance runner and sailor because as the nursery rhyme goes, Friday's child has far to go - isn't that amazing?!?

Congratulations Zach, Heidi and Nik!

Sail on sail on Aspen...

Steve and Maria

Captain Steve fixing things as usual

The land down under - Pioneer Valley outside of Mackay, Australia

It was a looong crossing to Australia from Vanuatu.